Last day in Paris!

Can't believe our vacation is almost over! We went to a wonderful concert last night in Sainte Chapelle and heard Vivaldi's "Four Seasons". Today walked to the Orangerie Museum to see the Impressionists (you can see me by Monet's "Water Lilies") and then to lunch--really good quiche and onion soup. Tonight we're going wine tasting and then to dinner at a small, but charming, restaurant nearby. It has been great, but we're ready to be home!

Seine River Cruise/Giverny

Hi all--we went on a Seine river dinner cruise last night--you can see the Eiffel Tower lit up as well as a view of all the beautiful historical buildings along the banks. Really fun--our last night of the Tauck tour. This morning we had a small group tour of Giverny (Monet's home and gardens), which is about an hour northwest of Paris. The gardens are unbelievable (if you're familiar with Monet's "Water Lilies" you'll recognize the photo I took); his house is very cool as well. We finally found out what Vern was named after--a town about 4K from Giverny. The way his name is pronounced in French makes him sound much more sophisticated than he is--"Vayr Nohn"--so now he's just answering to that. I think it's the beret and scarf he bought in Paris.....

Les Marais Walking Tour/Louvre Museum

Yesterday afternoon had a great walking tour with Paul Nahem, a displaced New Yorker who lives in the Marais. We saw these great old villas which have been restored and made into government buildings. He took our picture with Notre Dame in the background. We also had some outstanding ice cream (Berthillon); naturally I had to have two scoops! A wonderful dinner at a small restaurant in the Marais--very romantic. This morning we toured the highlights of the Louvre (Mona Lisa, Winged Victory, Venus de Milo, etc.) and now we're off to walk down the Champs de Elysees. Too bad Vern's bike is packed up--I'm sure he'd ride down the cobbles with no hands!

Avignon/Paris

Yesterday we spent the morning in Avignon at the Palace of the Popes (those Catholic boys really knew how to take care of themselves in style) and then took the TGV (in French means "big fast train") from Avignon to Paris at 186 mph! A real experience, especially going through the Gare du Lyon train station with thousands of other happy travelers. Weather is beautiful, as is our hotel (Hotel du Louvre) right by the Louvre Museum. Went on a quickie city bus tour this morning, just to get our bearings. This afternoon, we're joining a local guide for a walking tour of the Marais (bohemian) area and then dinner at a recommended restaurant "Le Pamphlet." Paris is very user friendly, with wide boulevards and beautiful parks. We even saw the Champs de Elysees where the Tour de France finishes. Lots of cobbles and a crazy roundabout around the Arc de Triomphe.

Aix en Provence, Arles, Pont du Gard

Hi all--a little catching up to do. Spent yesterday in Aix-en-Provence, a beautiful college town (see college coed--dressed a little nicer than most of the college girls we see in the states--Vern just happened to see her while we were at lunch....). Then went wine-tasting at Chateau d'Estoublon (see the pix of the chateau)--good white wine, average red wine--all blends. They're using the concrete eggs to age the white wine that we saw in the Solvang area on our winetasting for Carly's last birthday. We're staying at a lovely hotel outside of St. Remy en Provence (see picture of dessert)--had a horrendous thunderstorm last night--lightening, thunder, and torrents of rain all night. You can see pix of the local flooding--luckily the storm passed and it was beautiful today for our visit to Arles and Pont du Gard. Pont du Gard (top picture) is part of the original Roman aquaduct dating from 1st century A.D.--Vern walked across the top! We head to an olive oil mill tonight for a tour and dinner and then on to Paris!

P.S. Clark/Kelly--I agree the blue shoes are best for Vern, but he just doesn't have a handbag to match.....

Eze, Monaco, Monte Carlo

Our first day of our Tauck tour began with a trip to the medeival village of Eze, high atop a mountain, dating back to the 14th century. It's a beautiful village with lovely narrow streets. We also saw a car that Mike Joyce might want to buy--lots of bling, but we all know how understated Mike is. In the tour group we met a couple from Mission Viejo, a lady from Coto de Caza that knows Cathy Joyce because her son goes to Tesoro, and a couple that lives in Rockville MD, and knows Jen and the dentists she works for! We then went to Monaco and Monte Carlo, home of the Gran Prix and the Grimaldi family (you remember Princess Grace and Prince Rainier). See the picture of their modest home above. Also picked up some sensible shoes (see pix). For those of you not schooled in European bathrooms, I also include a picture of our gold plated bidet--a wonderful place to wash your cycling shorts and other unmentionables.

Hotel Negresco, Nice

Last night we had our "farewell to St. Paul de Vence" dinner at Le Tilleul inside the walls in St. Paul. You can see a picture of our dessert. It was a beautiful night and a great setting. We checked into this amazing hotel (Hotel Negresco) this afternoon; you can see the view from our room. It was built in 1913; in 1914 war broke out and it was converted into a hospital. Henri Negresco, a Romanian immigrant left home at 15 to work in Paris and Monaco and then was the restaurant manager of the Municipal Casino in Nice. Backed by a wealthy automobile manufacturer, he toured the world to visit the most prestigious hotels to see what the "rich and famous" expected. (Luckily, he didn't live to see the Medeiros' in room 126!) The "bathing beauty" sculpture shows what can happen if you don't exercise and don't follow the spandex/bikini rule. The other sculture (called "pensive monkey") is reminscent of cyclists trying to decide what bike to buy or what kit to wear on the group ride...

More glorious food!

Another gastronomic experience at Le Tilleul Menthe in St. Paul. Beautiful view from the ramparts into the valley and wonderful food. We go to Nice tomorrow to join the Tauck tour; hope to take a one-hour boat cruise along the Cote d'Azur and walk along the Promenade des Anglais to dip our feet in the ocean. Probably no post until Monday, when we go to Eze (medieval village) and Monaco. Vern has packed his bike for the last time until we get home....so he will have a little withdrawal, but hopefully nothing major.....Love to all!

Food, glorious food!

We went to a great French restaurant last night "Le Vieux Couvent" (the old convent) where we had the fixed price menu for 26 euro--appetizer, starter, entree and dessert. Absolutely fabulous--and great wine too! It was a bottle of 2007 Cuvee des Hautes Restanques, Domaine Valette (from Cotes de Provence); and if I can find it in the states, I'll send everyone a case! Today we went to Fondation Maeght, a modern art museum in St. Paul de Vence. Beautiful setting and pretty nice art too! Can't believe we go on the Tauck tour starting Sunday--the time flies by! Vern has conquered both sides of the Col du Vence, so he's happy. Weather still beautiful, so we're hoping that continues.

Wine tasting Chateau de Cremat

Went wine tasting above Nice today at Chateau de Cremat (bottom picture). The chateau was built over a century ago on top of the ruins of a Roman garrison (and we think we've got old stuff!). The winery has 11 hectares of grapes; they produce red, rose and white wine--about 40,000 bottles a year. For you oenophiles among us (Mike Joyce and Ray Medeiros, please stand!), the red wine is a blend of "Folle Noire" (crazy black--a local variety) and Grenache. The white is a blend of Rolle and Chardonnay; the rose made with Braquet, Grenache and Cinsault. Excellent wine; beautiful setting! So Melissa, perhaps you can talk your folks into changing your wedding venue to a destination wedding in Nice at this Chateau! From what I understand, this chateau is one of the popular "French Riviera" wedding destinations--if you have many more bucks, you can rent the Ephrussi Villa owned by the Rothschild's in St. Jean Cap Ferrat. (see top picture). Now if I can just remember where I parked my yacht.....

Market day in Tourettes Sur Loup/visit to Nice and Villefranche sur mer

Hi all--had a pretty full day today--visited the small town of Tourettes Sur Loup (the town clinging to the cliff) for their market day and then stopped by Vence for a coffee. Last night we ate at Le Tigre Pizzeria which was great--however, if you ever see this beer (Desperado), DO NOT drink it! The worst--tequila flavored beer--what a great way to ruin two good things! Then our guide picked us up at the B & B for a tour of Nice (Roman ruins, Matisse museum, Promenade des Anglais, and the views over the Cote d'Azur). Having dinner at home tonight--salad, bread and cheese. Vern did find some Fischer beer (French) which he likes, so all is well after the Desperado debacle!

A lazy day!

Vern went on a bike ride this morning back up the Col de Vence and then we lounged by the pool. Big plans to drive to Biot to see glass/pottery was overcome by the lure of the lounges. Tomorrow we plan to go to the market in Tourettes Sur Loup and then we have a tour of Nice planned (a guide will be picking us up, as we don't want to drive along the coast). No pix today, but more to come tomorrow!

We smell so good!

Woke up this morning and had a lovely breakfast at our B & B--see pix of breakfast room and our hostess Wendy (from New Zealand). Then Vern went off on an exploratory bike ride and when he got back we drove to Grasse to visit the Fragonard perfume factory. Built originally in 1782 and one of the last family-owned artisanal factories in the Grasse region, Fragonard was founded in 1926. The Grasse region boasts a special location that fosters all sorts of flowers and aromatic plants. In the sixteenth century its perfume industry grew out of the rage for scented gloves, made popular by Catherine of Medici. Fragonard has its own "nose", an expert in the detection of scent, which requires 7 years of training; experienced "noses" can detect over 3500 different essences! The second picture shows the technique of "enfleurage", which means that when people started making perfume, they put individual flowers on a layer of fat, changed the flowers every couple of hours and then added alcohol to the fat to distill it to the pure essence of the flower. Much too labor intensive for today, so they crush the flowers and distill the essence; I think the guide told us that two tons of flowers were necessary for 2 ounces of essence. (which is why good perfume is so expensive!).

After the tour, we stopped at the boutique and I bought some perfume that drives Vern wild (at least on the inside--he doesn't do "wild on the outside") and then we had lunch at a little cafe in the old town. Now we're back at the B & B for a well-deserved nap and swim. Beautiful weather still! Also included overall map of bike trip, so you can see how much distance we covered!

Hello again!

Hi all--no posts for the last two days because of no internet access--that will tell you a little about how remote we are! (Actually the last hotel had internet but I was too cheap to pay 5 euro for 30 minutes!). Anyway, to catch up--Thursday was the most epic ride of all--the Telegraphe, Galibier and Izoard all in one day, with 11,000 feet of climbing. At the end, Vern had lost the will to live. On Friday, another series of difficult climbs--Col de Vars, Col de la Bonnette and Col de la Couillole. The weather was really windy at the top of the La Bonette, and we barely escaped with our lives! Gravel and rocks hitting the van, gusts of dust, etc. We got everyone in the van, put the bikes on the top of the van and drove down about 10k to get out of the wind. Then it was great! The last day of riding (Saturday) was a fairly easy ride into Opio, just 80 miles and two small passes. Had a fabulous "farewell" dinner at a beautiful hotel on a golf course and then woke up this a.m. for our transfer to the Nice airport and our B & B. The garmin helped us get out of the airport and guided us to Le Mas des Amandiers--you can see the pool, which is right outside our room, and the view. We are now ready to take a dip and a nap. Weather beautiful--about 76 degrees--even went to Le Clerc french grocery store (kind of like Von's--except they wouldn't take my card) and stocked up on beer, wine, bread, cheese and fruit. Au revoir for now--love to all!

PS--the correct answer to the cow questions: cow painted on elevator in our hotel, transferring milk from a local farmer to the big milk truck. (Martin, you win the award for the best answers!)

The Col de la Madeleine!

We had wonderful weather today (praise God!) and the group climbed another 9350 feet--a VERY long 25K climb (Col de la Madeleine)--absolutely beautiful at the top. We are now in St Jeanne de Maurienne and Vern is taking a well-deserved nap. His picture at the top of the summit is a testament to his determination (and great care from his wife). I was forced to have a chocolate eclair with my lunch today so we are sure to be contributing to the local economy. French pastry is the best! Continuing on the cow theme, anyone have a guess where this cow was painted? And what are the men doing with these two trucks? On the way to the Col du Telegraphe, Col du Galibier and Col d'Izoard tomorrow. For those followers who are not avid cyclists, I promise more culture beginning next week.

A rainy day

Wow, what a day! It rained off and on the entire day and everyone slogged through some beautiful country. Luckily, it was the shortest day on the bike with three passes (Col de Saisies, Col des Aravis and the Cormet de Roselend--9000 feet of climbing.) The pictures are views on the way and Vern at the summit of the last pass. Then a 20K descent into Bourg St. Maurice to our hotel. Saw lots of cows--the only wild life. I was especially impressed by this cow on a bicycle. The forecast for tomorrow is much improved as we ride south, so I'm hopeful this will be our only day of clouds and wet. Still having a great time--suffering bonds folks together!